May 9th
Assisi
Ravenna was our first port of call today to visit Basilica di Saint in Classe. It is a 6th-century church in eastern Ravenna. The main highlight of Sant'Apollinare in Classe is certainly the two side walls full of glittering figurative mosaics of the presbytery, apse and triumphal arch, which range in date from the 6th to 12th centuries, mostly the former. The mosaic were done in the old way whereby the glass pieces were placed in the fresco unevenly to reflect the light, it really was lovely to see.
Every day we see more cathedrals and every day they seem to get better and better, they really are incredible.
On our way to Assisi we drive through the Umbrian Apennine mountains and they are quiet spectacular to see, of course they are not the real mountain peaks but still I really enjoy the terrain whilst most of the bus sleeps through this lovely scenery. All through todays drive the country side is so productive with lovely fields of strawberries, peaches, wheat, corn, kiwi fruit and much more, it so lovely to see men out working the fields.
We arrive in Assisi and wow what a place this is. Assisi is a superb hill town in the beautiful region of Umbria in Italy. To us visitors, medieval "hill towns" are like story book towns that time forgot; they did not develop into big cities over the centuries, but rather kept their narrow lanes, massive gates, stone buildings, and other features we find so charming.
But Assisi is much more than a pretty hill town. Thousands come to worship in Assisi's magnificent churches, and to pray to Francis of Assisi, a much-beloved saint.
St. Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of Italy, is affectionately called Il Poverello, the Little Poor One, because he lived and preached a life of simplicity and poverty. He did not, however, start life that way; in fact, the life of St. Francis of Assisi is "riches to rags" sort of tale.
The man we know as St. Francis - a saint often pictured amidst birds and animals, who lived in simplicity and poverty-was neither poor nor saintly in his youth.
He grew up in Assisi as the son of a wealthy merchant, and was a wild young bon vivant: he loved to sing, and was a troubadour; he loved fine clothes. But when the town of Assisi fought Perugia when Francis was twenty, he was captured and spent a year in prison. Once free, he completely changed his life: he gave all he owned to the poor, he tended lepers, and preached a message of poverty, humility, and joy.
Francis spent years wandering, preaching, and singing canticles. He set up a community to live by his ideals. At that time, the Catholic Church embodied the strictest type of hierarchy; Francis preached a humble faith, much closer to the life of Christ.
Today, in Assissi, pilgrims flock to the beautiful Basilica de San Francesco. The lower church, where St. Francis is buried, is entered through an archway and is a marvel of beauty, with decorated vaulted ceilings, some painted dark blue and dotted with stars.
In the crypt of the lower church is St. Francis' tomb. St. Francis himself wanted a humble burial place, with the criminals on what was called "Inferno Hill", outside the city walls. His closest follower, Brother Elia, followed the letter if not the spirit of his wish: he waited until Francis was made a saint, and then in 1228 began construction of a two-storey basilica on that hill which was now given a new name, the "Hill of Paradise.
The upper church of the Basilica de San Francesco was severely damaged in an earthquake in 1997: the roof fell down, killing four people. Fortunately, the beautiful, airy church has now been restored.
The location in the small square of the same name makes it look like a gem set in the magnificent Gothic portal surmounted by a beautiful rose. The interior is striking for its grandeur and magnificence with three naves and large Gothic arches. The nave is decorated with beautiful statues of the 10 Serpotta, but there are also masterpieces of Gagini and Marabitti, not forgetting the paintings by Pietro Novelli that are above the doors.
On the main altar hangs a large wooden cross. The visit to this church is a continuous discovery of art treasures, hidden and revealed in the column or leaning against the side chapels just looking up toward the ceiling. The guide that showed us around Assisi was great, he was very theatrical and most amusing, he was so passionate about Assisi that he made you feel very much the same. We were also very lucky as there had been a medieval festival in the village for the past three days and so we were able to see the remnants of the festival. We loved Assisi and even found a bit of real estate there !!! It was fantastic.
On the main altar hangs a large wooden cross. The visit to this church is a continuous discovery of art treasures, hidden and revealed in the column or leaning against the side chapels just looking up toward the ceiling. The guide that showed us around Assisi was great, he was very theatrical and most amusing, he was so passionate about Assisi that he made you feel very much the same. We were also very lucky as there had been a medieval festival in the village for the past three days and so we were able to see the remnants of the festival. We loved Assisi and even found a bit of real estate there !!! It was fantastic.
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