Chateau Cheverny to Fougeres

Tuesday 26^th April

After our chat last evening with the locals we decide to take their recommendation to see Chateau Cheverny.  We have decided that two chateau’s will probably do us, we did have six on the list, but we both think that is over kill.  We also realise that Mont Saint Michele is a little further away than we anticipated, so the plan for today was to see Chateau Cheverny and then to make our way to Fougeres, to ease the driving for tomorrow. 

The drive to Cheverny took us on some real country roads with chooks and peasants darting across the road, the road was very narrow and it was fairly difficult to see the oncoming traffic due to the growth in the cannola and wheat fields. It is clear that the March rains and the unexpected warm weather in April has promoted a lot of new growth.  It was another stunning day, a beautiful clear blue sky and not a cloud in sight.  We are indeed blessed. The French countryside is very productive, most of the fields are planted with crops.  The grape vines interested us as they were only about 1/3 of the height of the ones we see back home..  The houses on the way were lovely, situated on lovely large blocks and all appeared to have lovely gardens with big vegetable patches.  The villages that we passed were very sleepy with little signs of activity.

Chateau Cheverny

Cheverny is most a most impressive castle.  Today the chateau is lived in by the descendants of the Hurault family who have apartments in one of the wings.  Of the original fortress built in the 1500 there remains only a few vestiges, located in the current outbuildings.  The two floors that are open to the public are filled with authentic furniture, which also are from the same epoch giving this castle a sense of being the real thing. The chateau is very well maintained, there was even a lass standing on one of the pieces of furniture dusting as we visited.  

The nursery Cheverny - these were the first rocking horses from the time of Napoleon III

  

We wondered why she was allowed to stand on the piece with court shoes on!  The furniture was exquisite and incorporates designs celebrating Napoleon Bonaparte’s Egyptian campaigns.   According to the blurb in the pamphlet it was Louis XV who decided to place table forks with their prongs facing downwards as he was tired of snagging the lace on his sleeves.  And it was the unconventional Charles X who decided to put glasses on the table as he could no longer tolerate the servants standing behind each guest eavesdropping on conversations!!  The poor buggars had such hard lives.   

The Library - Chateau Cheverny

The castle is also known to be the idea behind the cartoon character Tintin's best friend Captain Haddocks castle  "The Marlinespike Hall". The likeness is stunning, and the castle takes advantage of this with presenting a special Tintin museum in a neighbouring barn.   We were very pleased that Cheverny was recommended as it was outstanding, the castle is set on an ocean of lawns which are perfectly linked with the English style grounds, planted with fabulous trees, even some big redwoods.  There is a large building called the orangery which in the 18^th century was used to keep the orange trees under shelter in winter.  But during the second world war  part of the nation’s property found refuge in this orangery, including, apparently the Mona Lisa.   Cheverny is also an important hunting venue and its kennels house about a hundred French hounds with a V for Vibraye shorn into the right flank of each of the hounds.

After the chateau we decide to make our way to Fougeres.  On our way we decide to stop for a break and finally are able to pick up a map of France.  Now we will be able to chart where we have been and to see clearly where we are going.  Unfortunately now we have the map we can see that Bayeux is probably out of our reach.  We were both very keen to see the Bayeux tapestry, such a shame. 

As we near Fougeres Sheila’s display shows yet another picture of convoluted roads that continue to look like intestines to me, when I see them on her display it makes my bowels want to work.   Another toll, oops we only have  50 euro notes, it spews out a whole heap of one euro coins and out I get to collect the coins and then run back and take a jump in the car.